Evolv shaman vs phantom the phantoms felt Jan 2, 2024 · Evolv Shaman Updates — May 2023 Evolv recently revised the Shaman. My only complaint is the initial fit. The Shaman Lace should be stiffer and less sensitive. i've had the evolv phantom lv, laspo theory w, scarpa drago, unparallel vim, evolv shaman pro, scarpa chimera, and mad rock drone cs hv. . Shoes that definitely didn’t work: Sportiva solutions Sportiva zenit Tenaya mundaka Shoes that were meh. New to the 2023 Evo Lab family, the Shaman Pro introduces an entirely new way of thinking about climbing shoe design. Unparallel: Flagship; Fits well. This shoe is built upon a powerful downturned last with steep sport climbing and bouldering in mind. I would mainly be using them for board climbing and bouldering (both indoor and outdoor). 5 so should I go for 11. The photos above show the previous model (left) next to the newest model (right). The highly arched mid-foot pulls with asymmetric design of the shoe to provide more control in the overhang. The Phantom heel is perfect in terms of fit. Install Raid for Free IOS/ANDROID/PC: https://clcr. Mar 21, 2021 · In collaboration with Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson, The Evolv Phantom climbing shoe has been designed for the hardest projects in mind. Perfect for stepping on small features and smearing on large volumes, the medium-soft, highly cambered evolv Phantom climbing shoes are made for steep, modern-style boulder problems and sport routes. 5US). Jan 24, 2023 · Hey y'all, I used the Evolv Agros pretty prolifically (main/only shoe pretty much) for about 4-5 years until Evolv recently discontinued them. I thought maybe I just had narrow heels, so tried the LV. The shoe really begins to shine on steeper angles where toe and heel hooking are mandatory. the zenist on the other hand is more similar to what you are asking for without a midsole and is very soft, depending on The Phantom was designed for the technical climber who needs equal sensitivity and power from their climbing shoe. i tried on the LS solutions (36) and evolv phantoms (38) at REI yesterday. Jan 6, 2022 · But there are other models from Evolv shoes and other manufacturers better suited to sustained crack climbing. Does this new technology revolutionise climbing shoe design? I also upgraded from Veloces to Chimeras. Evolv Shaman shoes are built for steep terrain and sport climbing. Shaman Pro Finally decided on buying the evolv shaman’s But was wondering how evolv sizing works, heard that street shoe size is 1:1 with evolv sizing, for reference my street shoe size is 11. nowhere around me sells evolv shoes, so I was wondering if anyone who has tried the various models can compare the fit of the phantoms with the other similar evolv models, specifically the new shamans, shaman pros, and maybe the zenist pros (which may be softer than I want, not sure). They have nothing in common, and if you're trying to decide between those two particular shoes, you probably have no idea why you're buying new shoes. The toebox for these shoes is pretty much perfect for me - it has vertical space to allow my toes to curl, and it's wide enough unlike many other shoes. They’re just as sensitive and comfortable, but have a tiny bit more support. I have enjoyed climbing with Evolv past (All Shaman models, Agro, Phantom and Oracle) and they are a bit "tanky" shoes but very well made, and last shitloads of abuse. Evolv Phantom LV (size 9. Steep terrain. Hello everyone, could someone possibly provide a comparison of the fit between the Evolv Phantom and Evolv Shaman models? I appreciate all aspects of the Shaman except for the deep heel, which doesn't suit me well, I constantly feel I will slip out of them. evolv phantom lv (street size) tried on and seemed to fit well at a level of tightness I expect to work well. i've also used the geshido in the past. Butora: Acro; toe box is not square enough. I have a wide foot with low-volume heel, and due to the lack of Love Bump/Knuckle Box for toe knuckles like the Shaman and Oracle have, jamming your foot in to a snug performance fit is harder for some foot shapes that were Moved Permanently. In 2022 and 2023 the Shaman range grew to include a total of six different shoe models; The Velcro, lace – both coming in high and low-volume variations – as well as the Shaman Pro. It felt better than the solution. 5 had even worse heel fit), Phantom 9. 2mm thick. Perhaps most notable, the shoe is fun to climb in. Jul 6, 2023 · I prefer this because I feel like it lets me "grab" footholds better, and also just be more in tune with my foot placements. I mostly boulder in Otaki and Katana Lace these days. So to me the Shaman Pro closure looks nice. Mar 29, 2023 · Evolv introduced the Phantom climbing shoe in 2019 as the brand’s flagship model for the most technically demanding types of rock climbing. Evolvs rubber idh1 s super sticky and imo feels a lot stickier than the xs grip 2 on the VSR. Evolv Shaman vs. Been using Evolv Phantoms (much, much stiffer) and Scarpa Dragos (pretty decent but lacking the Agro toebump/doesn't feel great on the top of my toes) but haven't found a true replacement yet. Evolv's new Evo Wrap tech works with the dynamic midsole to squeeze out dead space and maintain an aggressive downturn for optimal power, precision, and performance without needing to do any painful downsizing. Getting the right size and shape that best fits your foot is a complicated process. New Shamen; the toe box is too low volume and is horribly painful, I also had issues with the rand being too soft. Does anyone have strong opinions about Evolv Shamans vs Evolv Phantoms? I've been using Butora Acro (wides) for the last 3-4 years and I'm looking for something with a little more sensitivity with the same level of edging power. low volume, Egyptian foot). Straps and heelhooks are still going strong, amazing value and build quality. A Perfect illustration is the Phantom, developed in conjunction with Evolv athletes, Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson. Jul 20, 2023 · Largely centred around the introduction of the new 'EvoWrap' technology, a thin, 1mm rubber midsole come tension system that cradles the arch of your foot, the Pro builds on the DNA of both the Shaman and Phantom lines to produce the most eclectic and well-rounded Evolv model to date. This fits should be similar, but the Shaman's laces go lower than the Phantom's straps, giving you a more precise, personal fit especially closer to the toes. Pretty much. Ordered and waiting now. Evolv They had the Phantom in size 9 and I couldn't get them on my feet at all They had the Shaman Pro (the ones I'm interested in) in size 9. Everyone’s feet are unique and different. Evolv innovates the best climbing shoes to a new level by working closely with product developers, designers and especially, the athletes. Mar 31, 2023 · The Shaman utilizes a three-strap closure system for a supportive and powerful fit, while the Phantom features a six-loop Compression Closure System (CCS) connected by a single pull Velcro tab for a snug fit similar to a lace-up shoe with easy adjustability. Both work well enough for my fat old feet. 5, Zenist 10 (9. Mar 22, 2021 · The shaman and Phantom mitigates that with more surface area closure over the shoe. Nov 10, 2023 · The highly coveted Evolv Phantom has fast become recognized as one of the best bouldering shoes money can buy. This high-quality rubber is designed to provide the best possible friction while ensuring maximum durability. same boat here, struggled to find shoes that fit my heel really well (and i heel-hook a lot as a shorter climber). Women’s Solution comp, Skwama women, Mantras, 5. Staying true to size in Evolv seems similar to going 2 sizes down in LS shoes I had (Miura VS, Kataki, Python, Futura). Half a size down is all I can take for a tight performance fit. Evolv sizing uses three categories of fit: Max Performance, Phantom Low Volume Shaman Low Volume Item number 66 Evolv sizing uses three categories of fit: Max Performance, Performance, and Comfort. Similar to the Shaman Lace and Shaman Strap, the Shaman Pro is softer and sensitive, which makes it the perfect pal for indoor bouldering! Evolv Phantom: This shoe fit quite well but I hated the straps Sportiva Solution Comp: This had a quite good heel but I think based on the shoe last design is a bit wide for me. The vegan synthetic upper built is on an aggressively profiled last to ensure your foot is always in a power position and that the shoe will not stretch too much over time. Usage: Evolv Shaman: Bouldering, multi-pitch technical routes, gym climbing. Dec 28, 2024 · A performance fit no longer means pain thanks to the Evolv Shaman Pro Shoe. 5? La Sportiva Shaman Lace Item number 66-0000062206. Good fit but not crazy. That being said, the heel on the phantom - even on a much looser fit felt so much more secure, technical, and grippy. I've used the solutions before but want to go vegan. Evolv are more downturned and asymetric so they feel a bit more uncomfortable out of the box but both shoes get softer with time. It's designed with more emphasis on edging. As well as the new models, the OG has had a refresh recently with new design features and a new colour (yellow/ grey/ white replacing the orange/ blue of the old version). Evolv Phantom (size 9. Whether you are starting off, warming up, or projecting hard, Evolv Rock Climbing Shoes has it all. Lyra; too narrow. Also known strap problems Sportiva Katana Lace: Felt like a good shoe, would have bought if it was on sale Re-designed for 2016, the new Shaman is the top shoe in Evolv’s lineup, and it’s good to see the company pulling out all the stops for a true top-shelf model. I have a lot of friends that have the Miuras and love them. This new iteration features new aesthetics and a very minor update to fit, including a deeper heel cup and more tension in the rand to facilitate a more secure fit. the solutions fit my heel a little too big (even after sizing down), but the toe box was pretty tight. I've only tried these shoes at demos, though, so I don't have extensive experience with them. Feb 16, 2023 · But, if you want or otherwise require the “encased in rubber” build, you can opt for the Evolv Phantom. 5 based on how I fit in the 9. Thanks! Mar 31, 2023 · The rubber used in both the Evolv Shaman and Evolv Phantom is the TRAX® SAS outsole, which is 4. Miura VS is really stiff and high volume if you’re lucky enough to have the right foot shape for it. 10/adidas Hiangles, Tenaya Mastia, Evolv Shaman and Zenist Pro I like the look of the new Boreal Satori too. Keen to know if the phantoms are stiffer / smedge better or worse than the solutions Mar 8, 2023 · I think it is just the single-strap closure mechanism that I don't like (not isolated to evolv, other brands as well); I like to be able to cinch sections of the shoe. New to the 2023 Evo Lab family, the Shaman Pro Low Volume introduces an entirely new way of thinking about climbing shoe design. She does not sweat, so they dont even stink. Regulus; fit okay but not great, I felt like I was between sizes. Sportiva toe box for me is perfect but heels always a bit baggy. The Shaman Pro is one of the newest shoes to debut in the Evolv climbing shoe collection and is a variation of the classic model designed for competition and the signature dynamic style that goes along with it. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The stiffness feels roughly in between a Skwama and a Shaman Pro, possibly a bit closer to the Shaman Pro. I know this has already been answered for OP, but for other readers, just also wanted to chime in and say evolv or scarpa! My go to shoes are evolv kira (daily chill climbing), evolv shaman lvs (aggressive), and scarpa force v (warmer so mostly for winter climbing). they’ve held up pretty nicely after climbing both inside and outdoors. One thing I prefer about the Zenist Pro over the Shaman Pro is its ability to smear. || The BEST online Climbing Store near you Mountain climbing equipment shop All modern climbing gear for rock climbing, vertical or boulder. The heel fits so much worse that it's basically unuseable on heel hooks Edit: i've also worn Agro and Oracle by Evolv. I think the Dragos also use that last. They’re built on a totally different last though (Veloces have a wide foot and square toe box vs. After doing a lot of research, I am between a pair of the Evolv Shamans or the Miura VS. Sep 20, 2024 · Evolv Shaman Pro is a high-level performance shoe This bouldering shoe is down to optimising both performance and comfort. We cater to a wide range of climbers from new climbers to veteran climbers and even amputee adaptive climbers. In result, a highly sensitive, aggressive advanced climbing shoe that excels on small features, smears and hooks on steep to very steep angles. The document has moved here. They both great shoes and I wanted to see if anyone has owned both shoes, and has a preference towards either. 5 or 11 for a more snug fit The Shaman Lace is what I've been using since the Oracle was discontinued. Or at least I dont see a point in taking more abuse at my level. Here the downturn might become fatiguing and surplus to requirements. I was wondering if anyone have tried the Shaman and Shaman pro because I was wondering if I could just get the Shaman pro in 42. Evolv lists the Shaman Pro as vegan friendly, with all synthetic or plant-based materials. Phantom Low Volume Shaman Item number 66-0000062203. Jul 20, 2023 · The Shaman Pro can be resoled by any climbing shoe repair facility or by Evolv’s own in-house resoling service, Yosemite Bum. I really like the single-velcro closure systems used on the Phantom, on various Tenaya shoes, etc. So aggressive, sick edging power, but my feet sweat a lot and the heel literally just pops off when doing any moderately aggressive heel hook. The Shaman range. Say goodbye to painful downsizing to optimize performance: Evolv’s new Wrap technology holds the foot securely around the instep, eliminating the need to painfully pressure your toes into the front of the shoe. The Phantom Low Volume features two midsoles that act in unison. The downturned toe can grab into holes and allow you to pull with all your might. I have climbed a bit in a pair that were just a little too big for me, and they felt Mar 13, 2023 · Evolv: Phantom; fits well but softer than I want. 5. The VS uses XS EDGE so its stiffer and gives more support on small footholds but is obviously less sticky. Sticking footholds with precision and pressing the weight through the tip of the shoe is prioritized over the smeary shapes of the Unparallel TN Pro or La Sportiva’s Futura. TN Pro; Too narrow. It fits well on my wide forefoot/bunion gnarliness and the heel stays put. May 17, 2022 · Much like the Scarpa Instinct VS or the Evolv Phantom, this shoe is meant to be used as a point. I'm considering ordering the Phantoms, but I'm concerned that the heel may be the same I currently mostly climb in skwamas, size 39. The power platform excels on the sloping or subtle in-cuts of a MoonBoard, and edges well off even the most worn out kickboard foot holds. The Shaman in a size 42 fit fine. Personal preference is a factor here. 5 and I could barely get them on and they were quite painful to wear If I decide on the Shaman Pro do you think I should go for a 10 or 10. At Evolv, we recognize that finding the right-sized climbing shoe is hard. After all, that’s another one of the Shaman’s strengths: It can pass for an all-rounder. This beast of a shoe Moved Permanently. It combines all of the brand’s top technology to attempt to create a shoe that is both supportive and sensitive enough to stick on the tiniest features available. Feb 15, 2023 · The Pro models, with a wrap-around closure system similar to the Evolv Phantom, are a welcome addition to the growing Shaman family. I was able to try the shaman but they don't sell the shaman pros locally so I was not able to try them. The Evolv Shaman might be one of the company’s oldest shoe lines currently still in production but this shoe is certainly no dinosaur. 5). Evolv sizing uses three categories of fit: Phantom Low Volume Zenist Pro Low Volume V6 LV Indoor bouldering: Scarpca Instinct VSR ; Evolv Phantom or Shaman Pros (my current 'main') ; La Sportiva Python (ok, but not as good as previous mentions) Outdoor, stiffer: Scarpa Instinct VS ; La Sportiva Miura VS (not lace, lace is way narrower) ; La Sportiva Testarossa ; Evolv Shaman Lace or Velcro I'm trying to buy some shoes online. the zenist pro wouldn’t be what you’re looking for if you want a super soft shoe like the drago - it’s actually quite stiff out of the box and takes a little breaking in to soften up, and even after break in it has a considerable midsole so i wouldn’t consider it. Jun 28, 2022 · The Shaman Lace is possibly the most aggressively downturned shoe in the Evolv line. It's a pretty nice middle ground. The only thing that the Zenist is better than the Phantom is smearing, and maybe toe hooks. The Phantom features two midsoles that act in unison. The Shaman is the second most expensive shoe Evolv offers, second only to the Rasta Shaman. I occasionally break out my Generals/Yosemite Bums for smeary easy routes or particularly ankle-eating cracks, but otherwise stick with the Shamans for indoor bouldering/training, sport and trad Nov 10, 2023 · On the rare occasion Woods isn’t using the Phantom, it’s most likely because he has slipped into a pair of the Shaman Pro. The shoe quickly gained a reputation as a world-class bouldering shoe after Daniel Woods claimed the second-ever ascent of a V17 boulder in these shoes in April 2021. me/Climbers_Crag and get a special starter pack with an Epic champion ⚡️Kellan the Shrike⚡️Click here📱e hello!! i’m looking to buy some new shoes after spending almost a year with my sweet scarpa instinct VS pair (size 37. I really struggled to make use of all the rubber when toe hooking because of this stiffness, compared to the Zenist where it feels much more secure with it's "measly" toe patch (when compared to the Phantom). SS is 10 USM/43. The vegan synthetic upper built on an aggressively profiled last will ensure your foot is always in a power position and that the shoe will not stretch too much over time. hoomqoodjxpcahdvegwzbllvkktfqgxzjynqenpspgimgtwvfdswsyanunxcnqtkvlrokk